Ball Python Care Sheet
Ball Pythons
Scientific Name: Python regius
Enclosure basics
If you plan on using a glass tank or terrarium, the following enclosure sizes are suitable:
• Hatchling to 250g- 37L or 10 gallon (40 x 30 x 30 cm LxBxH)
• Juvenile to Sub-adult 250g-800g- 74L or 20 gallon (60 x 40 x 40 cm LxBxH)
• Adult 800g+ – 51L or 40 gallon or larger (90 x 40 x 40 cm LxBxH)
Terrariums are strongly recommended over fish tanks for a few reasons. First, terrariums have thinner glass that will provide better heat transfer. Secondly, terrariums have better air flow through the enclosure without sacrificing proper humidity through vents at the front of the enclosure. Do not keep your enclosure by a window or on top of a heating/Air vent.
Things you will need for your terrarium or tank:
1. UTH (Under Tank Heater)- Ball pythons regulate temperature through their bellies. Having a hot spot of 31-32 degrees Celsius is ideal for ball pythons as this will help the animal regulate body temperature and aid in food digestion.
2. Thermostat- NEVER use ANY UTH or heat tape without a thermostat. Without a thermostat, heat tape or UTH’s can heat up too well over 50 degrees Celsius and can kill your snake. I also strongly recommend using a temp gun (also called an infrared thermometer) at least once a month to verify your hotspot temperature is holding proper temperatures. Temp guns are available at any home improvement store or on Takealot/Amazon for around R300.
3. Hides- Plastic or ceramic (looks like a rock) hides are recommended. Do not use a wooden hide, these can and will grow Mold over time. Plastic or other hides that are easily sprayed and wiped down for cleaning are preferred. You snake will use the bathroom in and on the hide so be prepared to spray it off and wipe it down often. Place 1 hide on top of the hot spot in the enclosure.
4. Water dish- Use a water bowl that the snake cannot tip over. There are many options for water dishes from companies like ZooMed or Zilla. Water bowls should be large enough to hold plenty of water for your snake, but not large enough for the snake to go for a swim.
5. Substrate- Using a good substrate for a Ball Python enclosure can be the difference between a healthy snake that sheds and eats well and a snake that won’t eat and has continual shedding issues. We recommend any coco husk substrate, wood chips or any substrate which hold humidity well. Forest Floor bedding from your local pet store will also work. When using a drier substrate, make sure that constant humidity is adequate and if the animal is in shed to increase the humidity.
DO NOT USE SAND or Dirt. We also do not recommend Bio-Active enclosures for ball pythons. There is zero evidence that Bio Active enclosures benefit ball pythons in any way.
6. Reptile Background Scenes- Cover the sides and the back (not necessary if you have afalse rock wall in the back of your terrarium) of the enclosure with a “reptile scene” or dark construction paper so that the only way to see into the enclosure is through its front. Ball pythons are very private animals and like to feel secure and hidden. If they feel like they are being watched they most likely will not eat, or in some cases will not behave well due to being too stressed.
7. Cardboard and Foil- You will want to cover the top of your screen enclosure with something that will help hold humidity in the enclosure. Cut out a cardboard template and cover it with tin foil. Only allow room for a cut out for a light (low wattage enough to hold temperature in the enclosure within range). Do not “seal” or make the top “air-tight”. Be sure there is still some air exchange in the enclosure (terrariums will have front facing vents)
8. Temperature and Humidity Requirements- The air temperature inside the enclosure, on the hot side, should always be approximately 24-28 degrees Celsius. Do not use high wattage lights as these can over-heat the enclosure. Make sure to only have a light on one side of the enclosure so, there is a warm side and a cool side). Humidity in the enclosure should be between 65%-85%. This humidity is ideal for a ball python enclosure. Do not allow the humidity to fall below 60%. Misting down the enclosure with a small spray bottle of water (use distilled water to prevent water spotting and build up on the inside of your glass) every few days will help to maintain proper humidity levels. As a rule of thumb, it is better to have HIGHER humidity (90%) than lower (60%). Low humidity leads to poor shedding and dry out the mouth and nasal cavity of your snake.
9. Feel free to add sticks, branches, and/or greenery to decorate your enclosure. Greenery will help fill up the empty spaces and will assist your snake to feel more comfortable with its surroundings. Avoid using a stick or branch out of your back yard as these can harbour insects or other unwanted pests.
10. Ball pythons do not require UVA or UVB lighting, though some recent studies shown that ball pythons may benefit from some minor UVB exposure. Also, NEVER use HEAT ROCKS in your snake’s enclosure, ball pythons can and will burn themselves on heat rocks. Plastic Tubs for enclosures are STRONGLY recommended, especially for new(er) ball python keepers. A plastic tub will only need some holes in the top for ventilation (typically over/near the water bowl), do not put too many where humidity is not maintained.
FEEDING
NEVER REMOVE YOUR SNAKE FROM ITS ENCLOSURE TO FEED IT! NO FEEDING TUBS!!! This is a dangerous practice for you and your snake. It is a ridiculous and FALSE claim that feeding your snake in its enclosure will make it “more aggressive”. Removing your snake from its enclosure to feed it can get you bit (as your snake will be ready to eat) and will also stress your snake. It is VERY dangerous to pick up your snake right after a meal. Rats, mice, and ASFs have large sharp teeth. Handling your snake within 24 hours of feeding can lead to accidental puncturing of the snake’s oesophagus or stomach lining right after a meal. Always allow your snake to digest its meal for 24 hours before handling. Rats, Mice, or ASFs? – At RFC we feed only feed Frozen thawed prey items, Ball Pythons are very easy to convert to Frozen thawed and shouldn’t have any problem staying on Frozen thawed. We recommend against feeding mice to your ball python as they provide poor nutrition for your snake. IF mice are all that you have available, then mice are clearly better than nothing. IF you have access to a local rodent breeder that has ASFs available, we recommend them the most for your snake.
Size:
The proper rodent size to feed you snake is slightly SMALLER than the largest diameter of your snake’s abdomen. We feed one rodent per week. This may need to be more if you are feeding mice to a larger snake. For more tips and tricks regarding ball python care and breeding from people we trust please go check out the following YouTube channels
Balls2U- the best channel for all things cares and breeding for ball pythons
Royal Constrictor Designs- and Proper Royals for Feeding Frozen Thaw tips
Leviathan Snakes-husbandry advice and building a collection into a business
Snake Discovery- Informative on all thing’s reptiles and very kid friendly- We strongly recommend their video “What is the BEST Ball Python Enclosure”. We agree with this video for the most part and it has great information. We just do not recommend aspen bedding and a “Humidity tub with moss”.
Reptiles for Centuries- Husbandry and Care, Breeding and informative information on Ball Pythons.
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