Common Boa Care Sheet

Common Boa

Scientific Name: Boa imperator

Introduction:

Boas were seen as a subspecies of Boa constrictor for so many years (some people still call them boa constrictors) that it can be confusing. Most people referring to Boa constrictors still refer to this species and Red tail boa is the term used for the pure Boa constrictor constrictor which is found in South America. 

Common boas have been in the reptile hobby for many years. Originating from a small part of Colombia and then into Central America right up into Mexico and also on many offshore islands they were exported by the thousands every year and only some survived. Today very few are removed from the wild and if you find one in South Africa it was captive bred here and has no effect on the wild population. They have many varieties and colour mutations however the care of all of them is basically the same.

Boa do not live in communities and should never be housed together except adult at breeding time. Boa will happily eat each other, even snakes of the same size. They do not need “friends”. They prefer being on their own.

Make sure you buy your boa from a reputable source. Look for active snakes lacking any retained shed skin, possible respiratory infection (if you can hear the breathing this can be a sign of this) or spinal kinks or deformities. Look on the tail and over the eyes for retained sheds. These are signs that this snake was not looked after optimally Check for snake mites, which are small, black, parasites that resemble ticks and are very difficult and expensive to get rid of. Check your hands for tiny black specks after handling the snake.

 

Baby boas live much of their time in burrows or leaf litter so a dark cage or a hide box that they can feel snug in is very important. They think everything wants to eat them so they can be very defensive. They do climb but not too much and any branches or shelves in the cage must be sturdy. Live vivariums with real plants etc are usually a bad idea as these heavy bodied snakes crush them.

Young boas do just as well in a tub in a racking system as what they do in a free standing cage. The most important thing is that it must have access to heat of between 29 and 31 degrees celcius in one third of the cage floor space. The rest of the cage or the tub must be at least 5 degrees cooler. This allows for the snake to digest its food properly and undergo normal metabolism. Do not guess the temperatures. Buy a proper thermostat and thermometer.

Once they reach a length of over 1.2 metres then they have outgrown most available tubs and should be moved to cages.

It is best to buy a commercially available cages with a light source and a heating pad and thermostat already installed. There are numerous sources online that can help you with this. Cages with wire or just glass for example are not acceptable. Baby snakes can happily be kept in a cage or ventilated tub which is the same length as the snake with the sides and height being half that length. A hide box that they can feel on their backs when they curl up is usually used far more by babies than adults. If you have a long hide box that covers the hot side and the cold side is best so that they can move up and down without feeling exposed.

A heavy flat water bowl is a must and fresh water must be available at all times. The bowl must not be so small that the snake cannot partially climb into it if it requires higher humidity just before shedding. Water bowls that keep tipping cause conditions for the snake that can lead to respiratory issues.

No cage decorations must have a hole even if you think it is too big for the snake to get stuck in they get bigger and when full of food may get stuck. That and any sort of adhesive must never be in a cage.

Boas can happily be kept on newspaper or paper toweling. This makes it easier to clean. Sand or gravel is never a good idea for a variety of reasons. Coco husk is also a decent substrate because it can increase the humidity as well. Remember these snakes come from the tropics so are not adapted for cold and require a warm cage all year round.

Once the snake has settled in which can take a week then only do you offer it any food. Boas live on rodents but will also take small birds. You are going to try feeding it with a rodent no bigger than the girth of the snake. Warm it up (if it is frozen) and place it right by the entrance to the hide. Give the snake privacy so that it can feed undisturbed. Do not handle the snake at all for at least 2 or 3 days. When shopping for a boa look around and make sure the snake you are buying is taking dead food off a tweezer or will eat dead food when left overnight. Do not use your fingers to hold the prey item. The snake might miss the mouse and bite you which will stress snake and will probably not eat again for a while. Do not be in a hurry to feed it after acquiring your pet or else it may regurgitate the food and then it will be far weaker than being without food for a few days. Do not handle it for at least 3 to 4 days after feeding either.

Feeding live food is illegal in South Africa and the down side of feeding live food is they rodent could bite the snake in its eye or mouth and cause permanent damage. In some cases they also let go when they are bitten and you don’t notice it. The rodents then end up attacking the snake.

Cages / tubs must be cleaned regularly especially if the snake has defecated in the cage. If you are using a paper substrate then remove all of it and give the cage a quick wipe. F10 spray is a very good cleaning agent. If you have coco husk or similar then remove that area. Replace all the substrate every few months or even sooner if you can smell it unpleasant and has an ammonia smell. 

Water bowls must be cleaned more often especially if the snake defecates in it. Then you need to wash it with warm soapy water and rinse it before putting it back. If you are not prepared to drink out of the water bowl you cannot expect the snake to do the same.

At some stage you snake will shed its skin. Small snakes should shed the skin in a single complete piece. Check the shedding to make sure both of the eye caps are attached to the shedded skin and that the tail is on the shedding. If not soak the snake and gently remove the tail skin. If the snake is not shedding in one piece then the humidity is not adequate and you need to review your keeping protocols.

When you want to pick up the snake do not hover over it like a bird of prey. This will make them defensive. Bites from babies are not serious however if you do not want to get bitten you can buy thin rubber gloves and wear these till the snake realises that biting does not get the desired effect. They then calm down after that.

Do not be shy to ask for advice or google for advice however when you are unsure then find another source to confirm the changes you need to make. There are associations where people will help as well as whatsapp groups you can join. Try doing your own research first and then confirm it with someone who has more experience.     

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